by Cher Kazayis
The small olive plays a big role in the miracle of Chanukah, a little cruse of its oil lasted for eight days.
But except for a combo pizza, we don't encounter olives often the rest of the year. Olives are only an occasional exotic specialty, and today, most of the oils we use are non-olive.
Now and Then
In early times, however, the olive was basic to survival, supplying the ancients with most of their needs: food, medicine and light. The olive tree leaves shaded them from the summer sun, and fed the goats in winter.
The beautifully-veined aromatic olive wood is valued in cabinet-work, and takes a fine polish. The popular inscribed oval souvenir front door plates that tourists bring home from Israel is actually a slice of olivewood.
But even today, there are places where the olive is a whole subculture. Casablanca's Souq market features hundreds and hundreds of barrels of olives of every size and shape, in hues from pale green and pinkish-brown to fully ripened jet black. Cooks from Morocco to Greece to Egypt throw olives into their distinguished Mediterranean cuisine.
International Tastes
Thanks to the growing interest in olives, some upscale supermarkets display a smorgasbord of international olive varieties, including: Italian Gaeta, French Provençal, Southern France Picholine, Chilean Black Alfonsos, oil cured Moroccans, and Jalapeno or Garlic-Stuffed California Colossals.
Note: processed olives require reliable kosher certification (see box). Certain sophisticated olive brands are endorsed by OK Laboratories.
In the Torah
Olives are prominent in the Torah, from the dove that brought Noah an olive branch to symbolize peace after the Flood, to Jeremiah's (11:16) prophetic poetry describing Israel as "a fair green olive tree of lucious fruit."
The olive is among the seven choice fruit with which the Land of Israel was blessed. The Temple's Menorah oil was top of the line, coming from the first drop of purest oil from the highest quality olives.
Trees
Growing to a height of 20-40 feet, an olive tree usually lives for 400 years, while some are still productive when old and gnarled at 700. Certain olive trees in Israel are known to be over 2,000 years old!
Before planting an olive grove, the site is carefully observed for many years. It must be protected from strong winds, winter floods or other faults. Each tree is surrounded by a low stone wall, so the rain doesn't disturb the soil near the roots. Growers carefully tend each tree and give it the royal treatment like vintage wines. Some of the better olive oils are highly priced like the finest wines.
The world's total number of olive trees is about 800 million, with 93 % around the Mediterranean, in Israel, Spain, Italy, France, Greece, Tunisia, Morocco, Turkey and Portugal, where olive trees prefer the rocky, parched soil. Olive trees also flourish in subtropical US zones like Arizona and California, and in the Latin American countries of Mexico, Brazil, Chile and Peru. Italy leads the world's olive oil production with 33 million gallons yearly. It takes one ton of olives to produce fifty gallons of oil.
Good Health
Current research is proving the unique benefits of olive oil. It is easily digested, aids the gall bladder and may even help remove gallstones. It is a good source of oleic acid, a type of fat that raises the level of "good" cholesterol (called high density lipoproteins - HDLs) in the blood. Olive oil is reputed to combat liver problems and constipation, slowing down production of hydrochloric acid, and reducing the chance of ulcers and other gastrointestinal ailments. Olive oil is excellent as a skin lotion, and can be used for hair dressing.
A Culinary Delight
Olive oil's variety of flavors and textures are great in salads, pasta, beans and bread. Its relatively high smoking point allows you to brown foods without burning. Olive oil is used in all forms of cooking - roasting, broiling, sautéing and frying. It is a healthy substitute for butter and other saturated fats, and does not break down as fast as corn oil.
Storage
Olive oil can be used sparingly in salads and dips; one bottle can last for weeks. Olive oil should not be exposed to heat, light or air for too long. It need not be refrigerated, but should be stored in a dark, cool place, in tinted bottles, tins or glazed ceramic jars. Never keep oil in plastic containers, as it may absorb plastic compounds.
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The olive is a bitter fruit that requires a multi-step curing process to become edible. It must first be soaked in an alkaline solution, then fermented in brine or salt to reduce bitterness and tenderize the flesh.
After curing, some olives marinate in vinegar or
The complexity of olive and olive oil production presents serious issues to the Kosher consumer. The problems involve the use of processing equipment for other non Kosher oils and foods, and the possible use of non kosher wine vinegar. Processed olives, and olive oil, therefore require a reliable Kosher certification. Mr. Neolus Georgoudis, president of Parthenon olives in the town of Volus, Greece is proud of his specialty gourmet olives, Calamanta and Thasos, that he exports to Israel. Mr. Georgoudis is also proud to have selected the internationally recognized OK Laboratories Kosher Supervision agency to inspect his processing plant and give it their stamp of approval. We point out to Mr. Georgoudis the irony of the historic reversal. In the Chanukah story, the Greeks forced the Jews to forsake kosher observance, and defiled the temple oils, while here is a Greek company enabling and encouraging kosher eating. He dismisses the accusation: "Your Chanukah villains were actually the Syrians to the north of Israel, who had adopted a Hellenistic lifestyle. It wasn't us living here peacefully further away in the middle of the Mediterranean!" But instead of discussing history or engaging in a philosophical debate, Georgoudis prefers to talk food. "Here," he offers. "Taste one of my beauties, you're allowed to eat it!" "I offer a classy, prime product, so I chose a classy, prime organization to tell the whole world that we meet the highest Kosher standards," he says. |
Making the Grade
Extra Virgin Olive Oil - top grade, low acidity, from the first mechanical pressing (no heat or chemicals) of the choicest, handpicked olives. Its natural antioxidants keep it from going rancid. Flavor, color & consistency vary, like fine wines, due to the olive variety, location and weather.
Virgin Olive Oil - slightly more acidity, mechanically pressed from second rate olives, maybe from a second or third pulp pressing. Virgin and extra virgin are the only "cold pressed" oils.
"Pure" Olive Oil is a commercial grade extracted from pulp & pits leftovers from a second pressing of low quality olives, using heat, high pressure and solvents, blended with a little quality olive oil. "Pure" refers only to the fact that there are no non-olive oils.

